Jersey Summer Dress TUTORIAL

The warm weather has finally arrived and with it, dress season.  I was playing around the other night and made myself 2 cute jersey dresses that I just had to share.  

A few notes before we get started.   

• This is not a pattern rather a tutorial that requires that you have a shirt or tank top pattern that fits and that you generally know how to make.  Alternatively, you could use an existing shirt or tank for the top of the dress.

• Fabric amounts will vary with size.  I always opt to buy more rather than less.

• I sew all my seams with my serger.  You can definitely do it on your domestic machine, but I'm not going to talk about that here.  This post would be waaaay too long if I did.  Check out some tips HERE.

• Always remember to pay attention to the direction of stretch of the fabric.  You want your stretch to go side to side for ease of wear.  When in doubt, test it out.

Here's what you'll need:
- about 2 yards of a medium weight jersey (I used THIS cotton spandex for all of mine)
- about 1/2 yard of contrasting knit for the border (this is optional - you can bind the neck and arms with the main fabric if you like)
- 1 yard 1/4inch elastic 
- T-shirt or tank top pattern that fits you (I made my pattern by following THIS tutorial)
- measuring tape for taking body measurements

 Figure out about where you want the skirt portion of the dress to start and shorten (or fold) your shirt pattern to that point.  Cut out a front and back (and sleeves if you are using them).  

1. sew one shoulder seam   

2. add binding to the neck and one arm 

3. sew the other shoulder seam  

4. add binding to the other arm.

There are many ways to finish the neck and arms.  I have a coverstitch machine with a binder (birthday present to myself a few years back).

  You can get the same effect using a bias tape maker or by cutting a 1.5 inch strip, folding it in half, pressing and then sewing on.  See HERE for a really great video on how to measure and sew neck binding.  You use the same principle for the arms.

If you are adding sleeves, put them in now, and sew down the side seams.  At this point you've basically got a short little top.  Try it on and make sure you like where the waist is.  You can trim it if you want it to be higher. 

Next, we need to take some measurements to make the skirt.  

 SKIRT LENGTH

Figure out how long you want your skirt to be by putting on your top and measuring to where you want it to fall.  Add 1.5 inches for a 1/2 inch seam allowance and a 1 inch hem.

I wanted the contrasting band to be about 3.5 inches when finished.  So, 3.5 inches + 1.5inches for seam allowance and hem, means my skirt length will be 5 inches shorter.

  SKIRT WIDTH

You also need to figure out how full you want your skirt.  I figured this out by looking at skirts and dresses I own and measuring across the bottom.  Add 1 inch to this measurement for each 1/2 inch side seam.  The wider your skirt, the more fully and gathered it will be.

For me:

Total skirt length 23.5" + 1.5" seam allowance and hem = 25" - 5" band = 20"

Bottom Band 3.5 inches + 1.5 inches for seam allowance and hem = 5"

skirt width 21" + 1" for side seam allowances = 22"

  

Cut 2 main skirt pieces and 2 contrasting band pieces using your measurements.  
For my dress I cut 2 main skirts that are 22" by 20" and 2 contrasting bands that are 22" by 5". 

  Sew the band to the main skirt panel with a 1/2 inch seam.  Press the seam allowance.

 Now lets make the skirt a little more A-line.  Fold the front and back skirt pieces in half.  Measure in 1.5 inches from the non-folded side.  Draw a line from that point to the bottom and cut along that line.

 Pin skirt front and back at the sides, being careful to match the band, and sew with a 1/2 inch seam.

Mark the center on the front and back of the dress top and skirt.

 With right sides together, pin dress top to the skirt bottom matching center markings and side seams.

 Sew the dress top to the bottom with a 1/2 inch seam.  The skirt is larger than the top so you will need to gently stretch the top as you sew. 

 Your dress is almost done!

 Try on your dress and measure around the waist (where the top meets the skirt).  We are going to add elastic so that the dress is a little more snug and gathered at this point.  Since the elastic will stretch out a bit, I measure my waist, then cut my elastic to be 1 inch shorter.

 Sew the elastic ends together to make a loop.  Fold in quarters and mark.  Match the quarter points to the dress side seams and top/skirt center markings.  Pin (making sure the elastic isn't twisted) and sew to the seam allowance, stretching the elastic as you sew. 

 The elastic will stretch out.  If you run some steam over the elastic, it will relax a bit.

 Fold the hem 1 inch to the wrong side and topstitch.  Try it on and make any necessary adjustments.

Phew, we're done!  I hope you enjoy this tutorial.  It ended up being more involved than I thought it would be.  But truthfully, it's not as hard as it may look.  Give it a shot....and do let me know what you think.

Summer Dresses for Me

It finally feels like Spring in W. Massachusetts.  The perfect weather for some new Spring dresses.

I had a vision and remarkably, it came together pretty easily.  

I used a simple scoop neck T-shirt pattern for the top, cut short for where I wanted the skirt to start.  The skirt I cut a little larger than the bottom of the shirt, gathered it with elastic, and then attached it to the top.  Really, it's pretty easy.

I didn't take any photos as I put these 2 dresses together, in part because I wasn't sure they would work out.  Not only did they work out, but I can't decide which I like better.  I'm definitely going to make more, and can hopefully put together a tutorial.

So, find your favorite T-shirt pattern and I'll be back next week with some instructions.

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Backpack Baby Gifts

 My wonderful neighbor is single-handedly keeping my backpack business afloat.

She recently commissioned me to make 2 backpacks as baby shower gifts. 

 Matching bibs and washcloths complete the set.  Something for now, something for later.

 And a matching little purse for the big sister.

 It's really a win win situation.  For her, it's one-stop shopping.  And for me, I get to play with these fun fabrics.

Thanks Lisa!

Another Simplicity 2226 - Summer Skirt for Me

 I recently got an email from a reader who'd seen this skirt I made and was wondering how I'd modified the pattern.  I used Simplicty 2226, and actually made a muslin, something I almost never do.  I've learned that for me, store bought patterns never fit right.  The muslin was really, really poofy, too big even though I'd used and followed my measurements, and altogether unflattering.  But, I thought that I might be able to make some simple modifications and in the words of Tim Gunn, make it work!

 I love this skirt and it's probably the first thing I made for myself that I actually wear a lot.  So, in case it helps, here's how I modified the pattern.  
  I cut a size 12, but ended up using a size 6 band.  I cut about 3 inches out of the center of the front, which ends up being 6 inches since it's cut on the fold.

I did the same on both back pieces. Since I took a lot of the poof out of the skirt, it needed to be wider at the bottom so I cut the sides to be more A-line rather than straight.

I kept the gathers just in the front middle, and very little gather in the back.  The invisible zipper always gives me trouble.  Anybody know of a good tutorial for putting in invisible zippers? 

I love, love, LOVE my new skirt!  And if it ever gets warm here in MA, I'm sure I'll wear it a ton.

 I bought this fabric last summer when my husband and I were in NYC with this skirt in mind...almost a year later, here it is. 

Lastly, the requisite photo with my face.  Trying not to laugh at myself....

Clutch with a....

...strap!  Is it still a clutch?

 In honor of Roselee's GIVEAWAY, I made one more Girls Night Out Clutch with a new twist.

 A simple little shoulder strap that tucks inside the bag.

Instructions on making a strap are not in the pattern currently, but it's really easy and I'd be happy to post a step by step here, just let me know.  And don't forget to enter the GIVEAWAY.  You have until Friday, April 5.

Think Spring.....TOPS!

Though it doesn't feel much like it around here (W. Massachusetts), it's Spring Top time!  I made 2 new shirts for myself last week, kind of itching for it to be warm. 

Total side not, you can choose to ignore if you want....one of my New Year's resolutions, even though I don't do New Year's resolutions, is to not crop my face out of all my pictures.  It's silly, but I always crop my face out.  Why?  There a million reasons probably going back to my childhood (just kidding), but it's time to just grow up and put it out there.  Ok, back to things that really matter, spring tops!

This shirt was a nod to one of last year's shirts with the shirring.  This time I decided to try it out at the sleeve end rather than at the shoulder.  I like it!

This next top I made with this this fun bird fabric.  I got both fabrics from Girl Charlee.

For this top, I did a cuff on the end.  I wish I had made the sleeves either longer or shorter.  It's not really a 3/4 length and ends up feeling a bit awkward.  I do still love it and have already worn it a few times.  

You can't really tell from the pictures, but both shirts also have a bit of a scoop neck in the back too.  I traced the pattern from a shirt I own that I've had for many many years.  Had to add some length to it.  Is it just me or do shirts get shorter and shorter over time?  I know I'm not getting longer....

Will definitely be making more Spring Tops, so check back soon. 

Don't forget to enter the Girls Night Out clutch GIVEAWAY over at Jane of all Trades. 

Girl Night Out Clutch - Bag and Pattern Giveaway

All I can say is WOW!  Have you been following Roselee as she posts 5 Girls Night Out clutches this week?

Not only did she make 5 bags, she's giving away the pattern and to a second winner, the bag of their choice!

Go leave a comment on her GIVEAWAY PAGE now to enter to win.

Take a closer look at each of her bags HERE, HERE, HERE, HERE and HERE.

Which one is your favorite?  So hard to choose!  Take a look at some other cute versions HERE.

Can't thank Roselee enough for hosting this giveaway.  Sending some blog loving her way...

In the Clutch - Pretty Bags and a Giveaway

My Girl's Night Out pattern has only been out a few weeks, and already it's popping up.  Here's a beautiful version that showed up in the Flickr group belonging to Jill at Homemade by Jill.  A-maze-ing to have such a great sewist and blogger make one of MY patterns.

This version comes from my local friend Sarah.  Teacher extraordinaire and mommy to 2 beautiful girls.  

And if you aren't a follower of Roselee at Jane of All Trades (why aren't you a follower?) now's the time.  She's my dear friend, busy super-mom of 2, Daisy leader, blogger, and oh yeah, she tested my pattern and made 5, yes 5 clutches! 

She'll be posting them, each with a twist, with a pattern giveaway at the end.  Check out this super springy version. 

I've been super grumpy this week because it just doesn't feel very Spring-like.  Looking at this bag cheers me right up.  Hard to feel blue with such a pretty bag tucked under your arm.

Coconut Banana Nut Muffin RECIPE

Here's an easy, yummy recipe, for your Sunday morning.  

I love coconut and there's some evidence that coconut oil might have better fats than butter.  Truthfully, I just love the flavor.  You can subsitute an equal amount of vegetable oil if you don't have coconut oil, but you won't get that subtle, yummy coconut flavor.

 Coconut oil is generally solid at room temperature, so just pop it in the microwave for a few seconds to liquify it.

 Combine the wet ingredients.

Combine the dry ingredients.

Gently fold the wet into the dry.

 This is a fairly thick batter, so I use a cookie batter scooper to transfer the batter to the oiled muffin tin.

Makes for even muffins.

 Bake at 350 for 15-20 minutes, until golden brown.

 Eat them while they're still warm.

 Yum.

My New BFF - In Duck Tape!

Ever since my last Washi Dress, I've been thinking that having a dress form might be useful.  I've been looking at all the options and thinking....and finally decided to try the duck tape route.  There are a million different tutorials for making a duct tape dress form, so I won't add another.  But, I will my general advice based on my experience.

Here are my tips in a nutshell:

• buy quality tape - and you probably only need 1 roll
• wear something thin and fitted underneath
• I used fiberfill to do the chest area and wasn't happy with the results so I went back and filled with plastic bags  
• don't be afraid to cut her open and refill areas - I did this A LOT
• take measurements as you fill - my rib cage ended up being too big after filling, so I added more tape to cinch it down
• use cardboard to stabilize areas - I used cardboard at the base, neck, and armholes 

Overall, I think she came out pretty good.  I'm not thrilled with the chest area, but that's true in real life too, so I guess she's accurate :)  

 I haven't used her for much yet, but I'm happy to have her around, even if it's just for taking pictures of finished garments.  The kids enjoy hugging her too.  It's pretty funny.

 I used this tutorial from Crafterhours to make the cover.  I did mine in a cream color first, but you could see the duct tape through the fabric, so I went back and made another cover out the brown.  It's a little closer to my own skin tone too, so I guess that might be helpful.

My favorite part is the stand.  I bought a 1 inch dowel and some PVC pipe that the dowel could slide in to.  I put the PVC pipe up through the form, slid the dowel in, and used an umbrella stand from Home Depot for the base.  The great part is, it all comes apart for easy storage.  When all was said and done, it cost about $30.  Perfect for my budget.  It didn't take much time either, which fit my needs as well.  I've had my eye on a Uniquely You form, but felt like I wouldn't have the time or patience to really customize it as it requires.

So, do you use a dress form?  

I'm curious to hear about what other sewists are using.